Purnell's Carignan Story

Upon visiting my mother and step father in a little village near Perpignan, Ceret to be exact a few weeks before Easter, I had the pleasure of trying the most amazing Carignan. A sample was left for me to enjoy (as they knew I was coming) knowing that the wine wasn’t quite ready yet. Even then, it was almost a revelation! It blew me away; more so knowing that the “new growers” were British with only three years expertise behind them. Jayne from Birmingham (she used to live almost next door to where Glynn was brought up) and her husband Corin Fairchild from Wales. What an adventure I thought and let’s face it, a whole lot of guts!
Yet another Brummy fusion going on-it’s all happening! 

Alongside this sample was a Grenache and Syrah which were both delicious. But for me it was the Carignan...it was outstanding. All are Vins de Pays as opposed to AOCs as only one grape variety is used as opposed to the typical blend of Grenache, Syrah and Carignan. But not to worry, rules are there to be broken and thank goodness they share this opinion! 

I went back to France in the summer and the weather could not have been more perfect. It was hot, very hot and what a great year for wine I thought (and will prove to be an amazing year so make notes of the 2009 Vintage). I met up with Jayne and Corin as they invited us for lunch at their house in a small village called Maury. Nothing is there apart from vineyards, a few houses on a small stretch of road and very loud Lorries passing through the village. A very beautiful and picturesque area…but apart from drinking red wine all day there isn’t a lot to do! One might say this isn’t a bad thing. Arriving at their home, I was taken straight to the basement. It could not have been more perfect. Almost a dream of mine as they had transformed it into a winery! 

We were served an amazing stew and of course to accompany that, we had a cheeky taste of the wine…. Just to make sure that it was evolving well of course!
I had definitely decided to take this further. I wanted this wine on the Purnell’s wine list. After a brief chat about it, they offered me all 700 bottles produced in the 2007 Vintage – also their first ever Vintage. An acre to be precise for the Carignan vines. They are over 120 years of age and were completely restored to new (as they were abandoned) with great care, knowledge and of course, love. This revealed the full potential on what was to come. The vineyard is immaculate and beautifully looked after. Grapes are hand-picked and thrown into small baskets. The small baskets means that the grapes don’t get crushed and start the fermentation process at the bottom. The wine has spent 12 months in new oak and 3 months in used oak before bottling. The wine has then been filtered with egg white and bottled in a beautiful, amphora shaped bottle. Unfortunately on one disastrous afternoon, they had to spray a little sulfur on the ground. They could not unfortunately class it as an organic wine. Just for that one day…but isn’t sulphur a natural substance? 

We had the label designed with our specification with the colours of the restaurant although I wanted to leave it more to them as after all, it was their pride and joy…and hard labour I can’t tell. This is the wine business for you.
Small growers are suffering at the moment and they have been for quite some time but we seem to ignore that. We tend to buy in our local supermarkets; mass produced wines with only one vision and purpose behind them-making profit. It will cost on average over £3.50 for the label and its art work, an average quality bottle, taxes (plenty of them), shipment, transport and the rest. This is where the Euro hasn’t helped much. Then you pay for what is inside bearing in mind that the growers/producers have to somehow make a profit. On many occasion the “smaller man” doesn’t really make anything; maybe just enough to have food on the table. When you see the commitment that is behind this craftsmanship, you begin to learn a thing or two and really appreciate the facts. It is like having a new born, you are with it 24/7. The only thing is you cannot leave it to the grand-parents!
Our Carignan isn’t just another wine-not when you understand the history behind it. It is simply wonderful. You are drinking something unique, something made with passion and the skills to working a vineyard to its full potential. 

These people like Corin and Jayne Fairchild are an example to a lot of wine growers. I’m certain that within the region, these “inexperienced Brits” can show the French a thing or two because everywhere, you really have horror stories.
I am wishing them the best of luck in their new venture and looking forward to many more Vintages to come out of their vineyards.
We hope to see you at Purnell’s to discover this wine and enjoy it the same way I did.

13 January 2010